I love it for its texture, at once firm and pliant, giving you something to chew if that’s your game, something that can almost be swallowed whole if you like.I love the combined silkiness and meatiness of some of it, the connotations of luxury in that. I love its completeness: protein and starch nestled together, with just a little something extra — wasabi, shiso — for spark. I love its light impact. It can fill you, but not with guilt.
What I don’t love is the check. Sushi doesn’t come cheap, not if you insist on a modicum of quality, and not if you want to savor it in a setting with more aesthetic appeal than a Port Authority waiting area.
Audio Slide Show: Frank Bruni on Affordable Sushi Restaurants
Kanoyama, in the


