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I love the combined silkiness and meatiness of some of it, the connotations of luxury in that. I love its completeness: protein and starch nestled together, with just a little something extra — wasabi, shiso — for spark. I love its light impact. It can fill you, but not with guilt.
What I don’t love is the check. Sushi doesn’t come cheap, not if you insist on a modicum of quality, and not if you want to savor it in a setting with more aesthetic appeal than a Port Authority waiting area.
Audio Slide Show: Frank Bruni on Affordable Sushi Restaurants
Kanoyama, in the